IN a country of 7,641 islands, it would take more than a lifetime to visit them all. But what if you could explore just one island that has everything — from white-sand beaches and colorful coral reefs to majestic mountain peaks and a rich cultural heritage — and reach it in less than four hours from Manila?
That island is Mindoro, the seventh-largest island in the Philippines. Located in Region 4B (Mimaropa), Mindoro is divided into two provinces: Oriental Mindoro and Occidental Mindoro. Often overshadowed by more popular destinations such as Palawan, the island remains one of the most accessible provinces in the region for travelers coming from Metro Manila.
Mindoro can be reached via a two- to three-hour ferry ride from Batangas Port and serves as an important gateway to Romblon, Panay, and Palawan through its various seaports.
What makes Mindoro particularly attractive for motoring enthusiasts is the recently completed road network that now allows travelers to drive around the island on a full loop. Stretching approximately 400 kilometers (km) from Puerto Galera to Abra de Ilog, the route offers well-paved roads and access to some of the island’s most scenic and historic attractions.
Early discovery
Mindoro’s history predates the arrival of the Spaniards by many centuries. In fact, Chinese traders were already conducting business on the island some 600 years before Ferdinand Magellan reached the Philippines in 1521.
Historical records indicate that as early as 972 AD, during the Song Dynasty, Chinese merchants were trading with an island known as Ma-i, believed by many historians to be present-day Mindoro. Among the products exchanged were beeswax, cotton, pearls, and tortoise shells.
The Spaniards arrived in the 1570s and named the island Mina de Oro or “Mine of Gold,” believing it to be rich in precious metals. The name was eventually shortened to Mindoro. Instead of vast gold deposits, however, the colonizers found thriving coastal communities of Pintados and the Mangyan tribes inhabiting the mountainous interior. What they did discover was an island blessed with abundant natural resources.
For nearly 300 years, Mindoro was administered as part of the province of Balayan, now Batangas. Christianity spread among many of the coastal communities, while the Mangyans largely remained in the highlands. Migration from neighboring provinces also reshaped the island, with Tagalogs settling in the north and Ilonggos in the south.
Mindoro became a regular province in 1921. In 1950, a plebiscite divided it into two provinces — Occidental Mindoro in the west and Oriental Mindoro in the east. The Mounts Iglit-Baco mountain range became the natural boundary separating the two.
For more than a thousand years, crossing from one side of Mindoro to the other meant traveling on foot. The completion of the east-west road connection has finally changed that, making a full island loop drive possible.
The Mindoro drive
The journey begins at Batangas Port. Motorists can take the South Luzon Expressway (SLEx) and continue through the Southern Tagalog Arterial Road (STAR) Tollway before proceeding to Batangas Port via the bypass roads.
At the port, travelers should inform security personnel that they are boarding a roll-on/roll-off (RoRo) ferry to Mindoro. Terminal fees, arrastre charges, and other requirements are settled before vehicles are directed to their assigned boarding lanes for Calapan, Puerto Galera, or Abra de Ilog.
Transporting a car or SUV on a RoRo vessel typically costs between P4,000 and P5,000 one way, while passenger fares average around P500 per person. Boarding requires careful maneuvering, as vehicles are parked closely together to maximize ferry capacity.
The crossing of the Verde Island Passage takes approximately two hours. Upon arrival, passengers must present their receipts before being allowed to exit the port.
The complete island loop covers roughly 400 km — about 250 km from Puerto Galera to San Jose and another 150 km from San Jose to Abra de Ilog.
What to see and do
One of Mindoro’s greatest attractions is that, outside of Puerto Galera, it remains largely untouched by mass tourism. Driving around the island allows visitors to discover destinations that many travelers overlook.
Puerto Galera remains the island’s most popular destination, offering white-sand beaches, waterfalls, diving sites, rich marine biodiversity, and a lively nightlife scene.
From Puerto Galera, travelers can take the interior road through Baco to visit Infinity Farm Resort, known for its cool mountain-fed pools at the foot of Mount Halcon.
The next major stop is Calapan City. A visit to the Oriental Mindoro Heritage Museum provides valuable insights into the island’s history and culture. Other notable landmarks include the Sto. Niño Cathedral, Calapan Plaza, with its unique seated monument of Jose Rizal, and the old municipal hall.
Continuing south, the highway passes through Pola, Pinamalayan, and Gloria, where travelers can explore hidden waterfalls and natural attractions. During Holy Week, Pinamalayan hosts a distinctive version of the Moriones Festival, featuring Roman centurions adorned with colorful feathers and glittering costumes.
Further south lies Roxas, an important gateway for travelers bound for Romblon and Panay. The road continues through Mansalay, where secluded beaches line the coast, before reaching Bulalacao.
Bulalacao is a rustic town surrounded by numerous small islands. Renting a boat allows visitors to explore several of these hidden gems in a single day. One of the most intriguing is Target Island, reportedly used by American forces for bombing practice during the war. A crater lake formed by those bombings remains one of the island’s unique features.
The road then climbs toward the mountain range separating Oriental and Occidental Mindoro. The long ascent rewards drivers with impressive views before descending toward Magsaysay.
From Magsaysay to San Jose and onward to Sablayan, the landscape opens into vast rice fields that supply much of Mindoro’s agricultural production. San Jose is also known for its seafood and serves as a gateway to Palawan.
In Sablayan, visitors can arrange boat trips to Apo Reef Natural Park, one of the country’s premier diving destinations, or to Pandan Island, where sea turtles are frequently seen. The Sablayan Penal Colony offers a glimpse into one of the country’s largest correctional facilities, while nearby Libuao Lake provides a quieter nature experience.
The route continues northward through Mamburao, famous for its fresh tuna, before ending at Abra de Ilog.
For travelers seeking an adventure beyond the usual tourist trail, the Mindoro Island Loop offers an ideal combination of history, culture, nature, and driving pleasure. With its newly completed road network and countless hidden attractions, the island reveals a side of the Philippines that remains largely undiscovered.
Sometimes, the best journeys are not about finding gold. In Mindoro, the real treasure is the adventure itself.