WHEN we travel, we often become curious about the names of places we encounter along the way.

This is especially true for towns that sit far from the usual tourist routes. We wonder what they have to offer, what we might discover if we take a detour, and what stories lie beyond the highway signs.

One such place is Anao.

Every time I drive along the Tarlac-Pangasinan-La Union Expressway (TPLEX), I notice the sign pointing to this town at Kilometer 150. The Anao interchange, which served as TPLEX’s northern terminus from 2015 to 2016, also provides access to Moncada, Cuyapo, Anao, and Nampicuan.

I was familiar with Moncada and Cuyapo, but Anao and neighboring Nampicuan remained a mystery.

A quick search revealed something interesting. Anao in Tarlac and Nampicuan in Nueva Ecija are the smallest municipalities in their respective provinces in terms of both land area and population. The two towns are immediate neighbors, with their municipal halls located barely a kilometer apart along the Tarlac-Nueva Ecija boundary.

Anao is known as the Ylang-Ylang Capital of Tarlac, producing flowers used in perfumes and essential oils, while Nampicuan is home to the Sanctuary of the Holy Face of Jesus, a destination that attracts pilgrims from around the country.

Tales of two towns

Anao was originally part of Pangasinan. Settlers from Ilocos Norte arrived to explore the area’s agricultural potential near a creek. The name “Anao” is believed to have been derived from the Ilocano word “danao,” which means creek.

The town later became a barrio of Paniqui under the newly created province of Tarlac before gaining municipal status in 1870.

Nampicuan’s early settlers also came from Ilocos Norte. They found fertile land suitable for farming and eventually established a thriving community.

Its name originated from the word nagpicuan, which refers to a curved road where the route from Moncada via Anao abruptly turns toward Cuyapo, Nueva Ecija.

Originally a barrio of Cuyapo, Nampicuan became an independent municipality in 1907.

Although they belong to different provinces, both towns share a common heritage, ancestry, and language. Ilocano remains widely spoken in both communities.

Getting there

Reaching Anao and Nampicuan from Manila is straightforward.

Drive north via North Luzon Expressway (NLEX), continue through Subic-Clark-Tarlac Expressway (SCTEX), then take TPLEX. Exit at Anao Interchange at Kilometer 150 and continue for about two kilometers to reach the Anao town proper. Nampicuan is another kilometer farther.

Those commuting can take buses bound for Dagupan or Urdaneta from Cubao, Avenida, or PITX. These buses usually exit at Paniqui and continue along MacArthur Highway. From Moncada, tricycles are readily available to either Anao or Nampicuan.

The ylang-ylang capital

You will know you have arrived in Anao the moment you exit TPLEX.

Rows of ylang-ylang trees line the roadside, serving as a fragrant welcome committee.

Anao is considered the “Ylang-Ylang Capital of the Philippines.” Essential oils extracted from more than 10,000 trees are supplied to perfume houses, wellness brands, and essential oil companies both locally and abroad.

Even luxury fragrance brand Yves Saint Laurent is said to use ylang-ylang sourced from Anao for its Gold Eau de Parfum.

A visit to the town offers a glimpse into an entire ecosystem of farmers, flower pickers, distillers, and perfumers who sustain this unique industry.

The Anao Tourism Office can arrange visits to local distillation facilities, while the Pasalubong Center sells ylang-ylang-inspired products such as perfumes, candles, massage oils, and aromatherapy items.

Visitors can also stop by St. John Nepomucene Parish Church built in 1935, the municipal plaza, and several local eateries that serve Pancit Anao, a noodle dish prepared with fresh vegetables harvested in the area.

Home of the Holy Face of Jesus

Nampicuan offers a different experience.

On Sept. 16, 2014, the town received a first-degree replica of the Holy Face of Jesus from Manoppello, Italy. The image was gifted directly by the rector of the Basilica del Volto Santo to Nampicuan’s parish priest.

It remains the only officially enthroned replica outside the Italian basilica.

When it arrived at the Anao interchange, devotees held a procession that brought the image to the Immaculate Conception Parish Church in Nampicuan.

According to Catholic tradition and religious scholarship, while the Shroud of Turin depicts Christ after death, the Veil of Manoppello is believed to portray the face of the resurrected Christ at the moment our savior opened his eyes inside the tomb.

Today, the Sanctuary of the Holy Face of Jesus has become a major pilgrimage destination, particularly during its annual celebration every February 17, drawing large crowds, novena masses, and motorcade processions.

The shrine has transformed this quiet agricultural municipality into an important spiritual destination in Central Luzon.

Visitors can also explore the municipal hall, Rizal Plaza, the Aglipayan church, and the local market, where fresh produce and rice delicacies are sold.

Pure countryside bliss

Beyond the ylang-ylang farms and the Holy Face sanctuary, Anao and Nampicuan offer something increasingly difficult to find.

Both towns remain deeply rooted in agriculture, with vast expanses of rice fields and vegetable farms stretching toward the horizon.

Sometimes, all it takes is a short detour from the expressway to discover places that remind us how much of the Philippines still moves at its own unhurried pace.