The Sunday Times Magazine > Places and Palates
Pansit-pansitan in the limelight

In the course of running my household, I have developed an interest in anything natural, organic and, as much as possible, homegrown. It did not happen overnight, it came with raising a family, prepa­ring daily meals, and realizing that what we put on the table matters more than we sometimes care to admit.

Pansit-pansitan is considered ‘weedicinal,’ growing like a weed and packed with health benefits. PHOTOS FROM KAY CALPO-LUGTU
Garnish noodles with pansit-pansitan and enjoy an elevated peppery dish.

I have also become more conscious of the number of people around me who are now on maintenance medicines. Hypertension, diabetes, gout and other lifestyle-related conditions have become too common. Many of these are acquired over time, through the food we eat, the habits we keep, and the way we live each day.

This is why I keep going back to the same question: are we eating to live, or living to eat?

Filipino food is rich, comforting and celebratory. We love dishes that are greasy, sweet, salty and heavy with meat. Many of our happiest memories are tied to food. There is nothing wrong with that. Food is part of our culture, and to remove joy from eating would be to remove part of who we are.

But there is also another side to our food culture that we should not forget. We live in a country where vegetables, herbs and medicinal plants grow abundantly. We have malunggay, lagundi, sambong, turmeric, ginger, talinum, kulitis and many others. Some are cooked into everyday dishes. Some are taken as tea. Some are used as traditional remedies by families who learned from their elders.

I’ve taken a closer look at these things the minute I got to know them through “Flor’s Garden,” helmed by Flor Tarriela, herself an advocate of the idea of using food as thy medicine.

One of these plants is pansit-pansitan and it has been placed in a new limelight given the interest of Western countries on this.

Pansit-pansitan, also known as Pepper Elder or ulasimang bato, grows in damp areas, sometimes near pots, walls or shaded parts of the garden. To many, it looks like a weed but it is a useful plant with a long history in traditional home remedies.

Pansit-pansitan is one of the leaves traditionally used for gout. It is known for its analgesic, anti-arthritic and diuretic properties. Some steep the leaves in hot water and take it as tea. Others use it fresh as salad.

Pansit pansitan is not expensive. It does not need to be imported. It does not come with fancy packaging or marketing claims. It simply grows where conditions allow it to grow. And yet, it reminds us that there are resources around us that we have not fully appreciated.

This is where food and medicine meet.

I am not saying that plants should replace doctors or proper medical treatment. That would be irresponsible. If one is already on maintenance medicine or has a medical condition, it is always best to consult a doctor. But I do believe that the food we eat every day can either help us or harm us. Our daily choices matter.

Pansit-pansitan is a good example of a plant that can be incorporated into a more mindful way of eating. If used as salad, it should be harvested only from clean areas, away from roads, animal waste, pesticides or dirty water. It should be washed thoroughly. If taken as tea, the leaves should also be clean and properly prepared. Like all natural remedies, it should be used with care and common sense. Realistically speaking, I use it whenever I get the chance to do so: in salads, noodles and even in paella to garnish.

This is also part of sustainability. Eating locally is not only about supporting farmers, although that is very important. It is also about understanding what our land can provide. It is about respecting the plants that thrive in our climate. It is about making use of what is available, accessible and familiar.

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The author may be reached at kaycalpolugtu@gmail.com or follow her at Instagram @kaycalpolugtu and @aplateofbahaykubo.